working with mother nature...not against her
turn back the hands of time with a peel
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The Modern Day Chemical Skin Peel
Many people fear that skin peels are harsh treatments with dramatic skin peeling effects. However not all skin peels are that invasive. NASCENT Skin and Beauty offer a range of different types and strengths of peels that can be tailored to address various specific skin types and concerns.
Chemical Skin Peels, also known as medi-aesthetic peels, involve the application of a chemical solution to your skin in order to speed up the exfoliation process. All peels work by removing the outer most layer of dermis (skin) and accelerating your skin cell turnover. The treatment does literally cause your skin to peel.
The strength of the peel determines the number of layers of skin peeled, the length of any downtime and inevitably, the final result.
Peels are performed to address skin concerns ranging from dull lifeless skin to sun damage, aging, hyperpigmentation, congestion and oily acneic conditions. When used in conjunction with a prescribed home skin care regime, peels are extremely effective when performed as a course of treatments. NASCENT offer a range of Medical Strength Peels, all of which are;-
- Formulated with the highest concentrations of pure naturally derived botanicals and high octane cosmeceutical correctives
- Formulated with certified organic non genetically modified ingredients wherever possible
- Chirally correct and optically pure actives for maximum clinical results without unnecessary irritation or trauma
- Free of propylene glycol
- Free of mineral oils and other petrochemicals
- Free of parabens and other harsh preservative systems
- Free of artificial fragrances
- Free of animal derived ingredients
- Never tested on animals – only people
The Peels we offer at NASCENT Skin & Beauty Clinic are from the Aspect, Aspect Dr, CosMedix and CosMedix Elite ranges.
Chemical Skin Peels can be safely carried out in-clinic, do not require anaesthetic and do not require hospital admission. Peels can improve skin texture, tone, health and appearance. Depending on your individual skin type and concern we can recommend the most suitable skin peel treatment to exfoliate, hydrate and nourish your skin. Facial skin peels also have many anti-aging benefits as they can stimulate your skin’s natural collagen production helping to rejuvenate, tighten and firm your skin.
All treatments are tailored to the individual and personal experiences and results may vary. We recommend a skin consultation and analysis with our Skin Specialist to discuss your expectations and our proposed treatment options.
If you suffer any of the following skin conditions, chemical skin peels can help you turn back the clock to a more youthful and beautiful you
When we are younger thousands of skin cells die and fall off naturally everyday, and are replaced by new skin cells from below. Unfortunately, as we age, this becomes a slower and more haphazard process, that does not allow your skin to shed evenly which over time and with sun exposure can lead to areas of varying pigmentation, textural changes and loss of elasticity (fine lines and wrinkles).
The function of chemical skin peels is to create an even controlled shedding of several layers of damaged cells. This exposes a new, fresh layer of skin with a more even colour and a smoother texture. In addition, the peel stimulates new cells to grow, thereby tightening the skin, which decreases wrinkling. You might say we are tricking our body into believing we are young again and this exfoliation of skin cells is just natural.
As the skin renews from within, dramatic results can be noticed with fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage, pigmentation, acne lesions, superficial scarring and improved skin complexion. In terms of acne, the lactic acid (AHA) removes the top dead layer of cells whilst salicylic acid (BHA) penetrates the follicles to help unblock pores, reduce inflamed skin and remove trapped oil and dead cells. For those suffering from surface pigmentation and sunspots, AHA’s help to lift surface cells which hold the uneven surface pigmentation, revealing clear youthful skin again.
Due to their exfoliating and nourishing benefits, skin peels can help to tackle skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, dehydration, pigmentation as well as various signs of aging. Our skin care experts can provide advice and guidance regarding the most suitable facial skin peel treatment for your skin type, helping you to achieve your goals.
Chemical Skin Peels are not restricted to skin repair and maintenance on just the face. Peels are also a great treatment for skin resurfacing on various body sections including the decolletage, arms and hands, legs etc
A chemical skin peel can be done alone or in combination with other cosmetic procedures such as a CACI non surgical Face Lift or DermaFrac Serum Infusion Needling.
Peels are designed to improve surface texture, remove dead skin build up and improve skin discolouration
Chemical Skin Peel Treatments
Oily Congested Skin
Salicylic and Lactic Acid Peel. Salicylic acid is great for congestion pushing out and drying the excess oils. The Lactic Acid fades pigmentation and pulls moisture into the skin to replace oil, helping skin to remain hydrated.
Get the benefits of Salicylic Acid and Lactic Acid combined in the same peel.
A MEDIUM strength Salicylic Acid peel – this peel combines clinical strength Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids to lift away the dull, discoloured skin cells whilst whitening the skin through optically pure Vitamin C and Tyrostat.
Ideal for addressing medium depth wrinkles below the epidermis.
Aging – Pigment
Containing Retinol (Vitamin A), which is the powerhouse of anti-aging, and stimulating lactic acid, the Timeless Retinol Peel by Cosmedix works more deeply within the layers of the skin to improve tone and texture.
30% Retinol and 20% Lactic Acid – ideal to address lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, and dull/rough skin.
Aging – Mild Scarring
A unique, acid free peel which attains dramatic rejuvenating results through the physical penetration of marine-based ingredients deep within the epidermis.
Uses Coral & Seaweed Extract to stimulate immense activity and cellular renewal within the skin. Improves blood flow, oxygen and nutrient supply to the skin.
Aging – Oily – Problem
Containing Lactic & Salicylic acid to increase cell turnover, remove dead surface cells & soften the skin. Together the acids soften, exfoliate & stimulate while lightening, brightening & repairing damaged skin.
Packed with antioxidants from cherry, blueberry & pineapple, this peel helps with aging, problem, oily & thickened skins.
Acne – Rosacea
One of our most potent peels used to decongest deep within the layers of the skin. Containing Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Retinol in more concentrated amounts, excellent for all grades of acne, impure skin conditions and rosacea (sub type 2)
Note: Skin prep with one of our Vitamin A serums is required prior to having this peel.
Pigment – Melasma
Repair and restore – stimulates collagen and elastin production and cell turnover to visibly reduce signs of aging and pigmentation.
Containing Retinol (Vitamin A), the powerhouse of anti-aging, and stimulating lactic acid, the Timeless Retinol Peel by Cosmedix works more deeply within the layers of the skin to improve tone and texture.
Discover Our Signature Peel Range
Chemical Peels and Your Skin
Primarily the acid peels of yesteryear were what we refer to as Strong Peels (think 1990’s and earlier) and were either Phenol peels (using Carbolic Acid), TCA peels (Trichloroacetic Acid) or high percentage Glycolic Acid chemical peels, administered only by Doctors or Dermatologists. The peels were painful and often left the patient looking like they had been dragged out of the crematorium burner halfway through the process of incineration as they visibly made skin melt away, appearing as if sliding off your face (maybe you can remember an Auntie, Mother or relative that went through the process and couldn’t go out for several weeks until their skin stopped weeping? I know I can. Or perhaps you saw the episode of Sex and the City – Samantha’s chemical peel, no, well you can click here to see it ).
Don’t get me wrong, those strong medical peels, when administered by a qualified practitioner, worked well to rejuvenate the skin, they had to as they had significantly damaged the surface layers of the skin, so the body was left with little choice but to grow new skin. The best skin clinics can now offer less invasive but as effective methods of strong peel skin ablation as well as other modalities of skin rejuvenation such as skin resurfacing using IPL and Laser treatments which allow us better control of the depth of the treatment and increased collagen remodelling.
Today, the latest advanced clinical formulas for chemical peels allow us to offer effective medium and superficial peels, solutions using less invasive chemicals, peels that leave your skin glowing, not flaking. “When you combine acids at lower strengths, they’re potentially less irritating,” says New York City dermatologist Dennis Gross. And you don’t have to see peeling to see results. “As the acid dissolves the glue between skin cells, you may have thousands of them coming off at the same time – but the shedding is still invisible to the naked eye,” says Neal Schultz, a clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Centre in New York City.
Many advanced chemical peels now include one or more Alpha and/or Beta Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s and BHA’s), use Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, L-Ascorbic Acid or a lower concentration Glycolic Acid, have little to no downtime for the patient, and are relatively painless (you should feel a slight stinging sensation during the treatment and your face could become slightly red immediately after – this is only temporary and will disappear after a few hours). Peel treatments that can be conducted in less than an hour and allow the patient to return to their daily routine immediately.
When done correctly facial peels are a wonderful way to address uneven skin tone, acne, and other frustrating complexion issues such as;-
- Uneven pigmentation
- Wrinkles and fine lines
- Skin thinning
- Rough, dull, lifeless skin
- Congested oily acne skin
- Sun damage
- Liver spots/sun spots/solar lentigines
- Actinic keratosis and
- Acne scarring
Used in conjunction with a prescribed home skin care regime, chemical peels are extremely effective when performed as a course of treatments.
But before I go on, let me stress this point emphatically, despite today’s peels having advanced dramatically in terms of results with less trauma; –
“Chemical Peels should not be administered by persons other than qualified Doctors, Dermatologists or Aesthetic Practitioners, who have been trained in the use of chemical peels”
Don’t be scared to ask, after all it’s your skin!
Your Practitioner or Skin Specialist should;-
- Carry out a Pre Peel consultation to identify any contraindications,
- Thoroughly assess your skin using a number of advanced diagnostic skills,
- Consult with you as to the results you wish to achieve and your expectations of peel outcomes, and
- Recommend a course of treatments based on your unique skin care needs and lifestyle demands to ensure beautiful results with the least amount of disruption to your schedule.
PLEASE NOTE: For many of the stronger strength peels you must undertake some Pre Peel skin preparation using specific products (sometimes for 2 to 4 weeks prior to commencing peel treatments), and may also be required to undertake Post Peel skin care therapy using specific products to ensure the maximum benefit with optimal healing.
Chemical Skin Peel Acid Types
So, let’s take a quick look at three (3) different acids being used in today’s clinical chemical skin peels and tell you a little about each.
Glycolic Acid (AHA Acid)
Derived from high sugar content plants such as sugar cane and beets. It is maybe the most common Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) around. Best for treating flaky or dull skin and pigmentation or blemished skin. The smaller a molecule, the more easily it gets into the skin. Because glycolic has the smallest molecular structure of all the acids, it yields the most dramatic results. It’s a great acid to start with if aging skin is your primary concern as it regenerates collagen, thickens the epidermis and dermis, and evens skin tone (pigmentation).
Lactic Acid (AHA Acid)
Another AHA, lactic acid is generated from the fermentation of milk. Like glycolic, it comes in various strengths and is best for gently sloughing off the first layer of the epidermis, leaving skin smoother and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Lactic Acid is a humectant which occurs naturally in the skin, and because of this it is able to pull moisture from the air and hold it in the skin. The Lactic acid has a larger molecular structure than Glycolic Acid and so does not penetrate as deeply into the skin, therefore it is less irritating and more moisturising than the Glycolic, and the Lactic can be used at a slightly higher concentration than the Glycolic, because it is not as irritating. Best for persons with darker complexions and deals with fine lines, wrinkles and anti-aging.
Salicylic Acid (BHA Acid)
The beta hydroxy acid (BHA) of note. Unlike almost all AHAs, Salicylic Acid is a BHA, which is oil soluble. Effectively this allows the peel agent to actually enter the cells where it can work inside the pores to unclog and kill acne bacteria and dispel oil content from the cells. It’s a staple in any acne-fighting routine. Salicylic acid has the ability to exfoliate, neutralise the bacteria that causes breakouts, and reduce overall inflammation. Used at concentrations of 1 to 2%, it is less effective at exfoliating the skin’s surface, but a great choice for acne-prone skin and patients suffering from an oily complexion.
Note: It is possible to have a treatment plan involving more than one specific chemical peel treatment. Salicylic and Lactic Acids complement each other perfectly. The Salicylic is great for acne, but is also drying, and works less well on fading pigmentation. The Lactic fades pigmentation and pulls moisture into the skin. So by alternating between the peels you get the benefits of the Salicylic without the excessive dryness, and you get faster improvements to pigmentation and tone from the Lactic. Our Skin Specialist can advise you if this is a good option for you after a skin analysis and consultation.
Everyone’s skin is different and everyone will have different skin goals. It is the task of our Skin Specialist to assess your skin condition and formulate a tailored skin rejuvenation and repair plan and discuss this plan with you. That’s why we offer FREE consultations to arm you with all the information you need about the treatments that are best suited to you. We can then work together to help you achieve glowing skin.
Our consultations are no obligation. So what have you got to lose?
Your skin will be cleansed, photos will be taken and a pre-peel solution applied to the skin as well as barrier cream to protect areas of the skin where we do not want the peel to go.
The chemical peel solution is applied with a brush, cotton ball or sponge. Anaesthetic is not required for peels; however, AHA’s may produce a slight stinging. Gentle cooling during this process will reduce this sensation.
The peel solution is then neutralised with an alkali solution or removed after an appropriate amount of time has elapsed and desired end points are achieved. Cool compresses may be applied to reduce any swelling.
A professional cosmeceutical calming cream and a SPF 50+ sunscreen are applied. LED Phototherapy is available and the addition of a LED treatment can be beneficial in calming the peel treatment area.
A full-face peel usually takes no more than fifteen (15) minutes.
Additional periodic peel treatments may be necessary until the desired effects are achieved.
For optimal results we recommend All Peel Treatments be combined with LED Phototherapy treatments for accelerated results.
Depending on the type of peel, pre-peel prep may or may not be required. Superficial and light peels generally do not require prepping, but our Skin Specialist may recommend a basic skin care regime to optimise your results.
More intense peels will require the use of skin care before and after treatment to ensure your skin barrier function is in optimal condition to ensure skin regeneration. Our Skin Specialist can advise you on which pre-peel and after peel products are required.
- DO NOT use any acidic products or irritants to your skin, such as retinoids or tretinoins, acne medication products such as Roaccutane, AHA’s (glycolic, lactic, tartaric, etc.), BHA’s (salicylic), benzoyl peroxide, vitamin C products, lightening agents such as hydroquinone or any exfoliative products including loofahs or coarse sponges to your skin for one (1) week prior to your chemical peel. These medications and products increase your photosensitivity, which can significantly increase the likelihood of complications.
- AVOID direct sun exposure of any kind as well as tanning beds and self-tanning to the planned treatment areas for four (4) weeks prior to treatment. A tan can produce a burn to the skin and can result in hyperpigmentation (skin darkening) as well as hypopigmentation (skin lightening). We recommend that you discontinue the practice of tanning due to the increased risk of skin cancer and ageing.
- DO NOT tweeze, wax, use a depilatory cream or undergo electrolysis in the areas you wish to have treated for two (2) weeks prior to treatment.
- AVOID Botulinum Toxin Type A (BotoxⓇ) and dermal filler injections on or around the treatment area(s) for 1 week prior to treatment.
- If you have an active cold sore or skin infection the day of your treatment, please call our office to reschedule your appointment.
- Please arrive to your appointment with the treatment area(s) fully cleaned and free of makeup.
- DO NOT apply any creams, lotions, aftershave, cologne, or perfumes the day of the appointment to the planned treatment area(s).
- AVOID direct sun exposure for two (2) weeks
- NO waxing/hair removal for two (2) weeks
- AVOID exercise for twenty four (24) hours
- DO NOT use a hair dryer, hot steam, sauna or public swimming pool for forty eight (48) hours
- DO NOT pick at your skin
- NO USE of exfoliating products for two (2) weeks
- SUNBLOCK is MANDATORY SPF 50
- NO tanning products for one (1) week
The goal of any peel is the removal of the skin’s outer layer of primarily dead cells and the stimulation of collagen and elastin to tighten and firm the healthy layer beneath. This procedure can effectively diminish the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, blemishes and more with little to no trauma to healthy skin cells.
- Minimally invasive
- In clinic procedure – walk in, walk out
- Minimal to NO downtime
- Suitable for most skin types
- Improves the appearance of acne scars and other scarring
- Improves active acne by reducing bacteria growth and removing congestion
- Improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Revitalises texture of photo-damaged skin
- Evens skin tone and restores radiance
Once a peel treatment is applied to the skin, it penetrates to the desired level and begins to stimulate and induce collagen and elastins. The treatment will normalise the skin, regulate oil production and diminish free radical activity.
Initially the treated area is red due to increased circulation but will generally fade within a few hours. You may experience a sensation similar to feeling sunburned – tight skin, warm sensation until the following day.
Exfoliation and peeling with some of the peels is common a few days after treatment as cellular debris and exfoliated skin is purged to the surface, but will decrease once multiple treatments have been performed and the area is in better condition. If breakouts or damaged skin have been treated, the area may be red and could micro-crust or develop slight scabbing that may last for five (5) to seven (7) days, with no residual scarring. Micro-crusting can be sloughed off in a warm shower with a soft loofah if required. DO NOT pick at any scabbing if it arises – allow it to fall away in due course.
Mineral make up can be applied to the area immediately after treatment, to ensure you can get back to your day without any interruption.
Most clients will see immediate results following their peel, such as improved texture, clarity of the skin and diminished fine lines.
With different strengths and intensities, peels can target many different skin concerns. Superficial peels buff and polish for hydrated and radiant skin, while more intense peels can target more difficult concerns such as acne, pigmentation or scarring.
For optimal results we recommend All Peel Treatments be combined with LED Phototherapy treatments for accelerated results.
Pregnant or lactating women should ALWAYS consult a physician prior to use of any products or professional treatments. During pregnancy or when breast feeding, a woman’s body goes through a multitude of hormonal changes and this can sometimes manifest itself in the form of pigmentation, increased sensitivity, and breakouts. It is not advisable to carry out corrective type treatments in the form of peels beyond the very superficial during this time and there are also certain ingredients in skin preparations that are best avoided until after lactation is completed.
Peel treatments are NOT SUITABLE in the following circumstances;-
- Persons with open wounds, cuts, abrasions, piercings or tattoos
- If you have been taking photosensitising (make you sensitive to sunlight) medications
- Pregnant / lactating women. Only Very Superficial peels are permitted if you have written consent from your Doctor.
- Known or suspected allergy to any ingredient contained within the intended peel – ie Salicylic Acid
- Active bacterial, viral or fungal infection such as active Herpes Simplex. Any active infections must be treated with a suitable medication, such as Zovirax before peels can be considered.
- Patients with viral warts.
- Patients that have used oral Isotretinoin (Roaccutane) in the last 6 to 12 months.
- Patients that have used topical Tretinoin (e.g. Retin A) less than 72 hours prior.
- Patients with a history of keloidal scarring.
- Patients with a history of auto-immune disease.
- Patients with active neoplasia (cancer) of any kind.
- Patients have undergone chemotherapy or radiotherapy in the last 12 months unless approved by patients physician.
IMPORTANT: The above list contains the most common precautions and contraindications to peeling and is by no means complete. Our Skin Specialist must therefore use best judgement in determining if a given peel treatment is suitable for you, the patient.